The first iteration of the Aquanaut, reference 5060J, was introduced in 1996. I haven’t seen a ton of these around but they do appear occasionally and appeal to the streetwear crowd.
The octagonal case, heavily inspired by the Genta-designed Nautilus, lent itself well to the new design. The only major modification was the dial, which was slightly smoothed to soften its appearance.
The Reference 5060
After the success of the 5060, Patek Philippe decided to update it and add a few new variations. The reference numbers 5064, 5065, 5066 and 5167 retained the porthole-inspired design of the original Aquanaut and introduced a few key differences. The 5065 was upsized and the 5066 had an open case back. The most significant change, however, was the introduction of a rubber strap. This was an industry first and gave the watch a more casual look that could be worn with a sports shirt at the gym or a polo at the beach.
Despite the differences, it is fairly easy to see the Aquanaut’s lineage from the Nautilus. The brushed stainless steel bracelet, the porthole-inspired case shape, and the pronounced “ear” crown guards are all clear homages to the Nautilus. In fact, if you look in vintage Patek catalogues from this period, the 5060 can be found listed alongside a 3800 Nautilus with the same dial and hands – further reinforcing the connection between the two watches.
While the early references were clearly influenced by the Nautilus, the Aquanaut series soon moved away from its roots. One of the earliest references to do this was the ref 5060A, released in 1997. This was the first Aquanaut to be offered on a rubber strap and featured a checkerboard dial – both features that would become signatures of the collection. For many collectors, the 5060A is considered the official start of the Aquanaut series and a bridge between the Nautilus and the modern sporty looks that are now found in this collection.
The 5060A also marked the debut of the annual calendar, another complication that has become a hallmark of the Aquanaut series. This was a first for Patek Philippe and is credited to a special order from a client who wanted to have this feature on his watch. While the complication is not as well known as other more traditional complications, it is very interesting and the perfect addition to an already versatile sports watch that can be just as at home at the gym as it is with a formal suit.
The 5060A was produced in both stainless steel and yellow gold and a limited run of 100 pieces were made. The yellow gold version, the reference 5060/SJ, is the most sought after by collectors today. The stainless steel variant, the reference 5060/A, is less rare but still relatively affordable. While the prices on this reference are more in line with other contemporary luxury sports watches, it is worth noting that the auction market for these watches has been strong in recent years. In 2015, a stainless steel example with a green dial sold for a record-breaking price at Sotheby’s. This is likely due to the increasing appreciation for both the annual calendar and the Aquanaut series as a whole. A pristine example of this reference can be found here.
The Birth of Aquanaut
Highlight the year of its inception, 1997, and the objective behind its design – to appeal to a younger audience, offering a fresh take on luxury sports watches.
Unique Design Features
Discuss the standout design elements:
- The distinctive “Tropical” strap made from a composite material that’s resistant to wear, saltwater, and UV radiation.
- The textured, checkerboard pattern on the dial which mirrors its strap.
- The octagonal-rounded bezel inspired by Patek’s Nautilus collection but with its own unique spin.
Technical Mastery
Emphasize on the series’ movement, the self-winding caliber which ensures precision and longevity. Mention the various models and their technical specifics, such as water resistance and power reserve.
MIO Jewelry Luxury Watch Store
Introduce MIO Jewelry as one of the select few luxury watch stores that proudly offers the Patek Philippe Aquanaut series. Highlight the store’s commitment to authentic and premium offerings, ensuring that watch enthusiasts get genuine products coupled with exceptional customer service. Discuss any exclusive events or showcases MIO Jewelry might have held related to Patek Philippe.
